A Proper Gentleman should know how well a suit should fit. But what about the details that define the style of a suit. Each and every detail tell a story. Part of being a well-dressed man is the ability to take care of any and every detail meticulously, no matter how severe it might seem. Always look your best.
The continuation of the Proper Fit – Suits, divulge into the parts of the suit that matters most, the infallible ones.
Lapels are very important to the fit of a suit. A modern gentleman needs to look his best if he is going to impress, whether for the office or just for casual outings. Lapels are categorized into three main types:
- Notch: A conventional jacket lapel where the collar and lapel meets to form a wide “V”.
- Peak: A formal jacket lapel which sits close to the collar, pointing up and beyond it.
- Shawl: A continuously curved lapel most commonly seen on the tuxedo.
The Lapel Roll is also an important part of the jacket. Its fall and curl from the break of the collar to the first button, giving the overall an organised look.
The Lapels Width is also in play. A tailor getting your suit ready should make sure that it is to the proper size and fit for you. It is also important for a modern gentleman to be verse about suits and the proper fit for their body. It may not be, to some, an important tool, but it is an asset to be knowledgeable about it just in case your tailor messes up or if you’re doing your own shopping.
The width is measured at its widest point, measured perpendicular to the inner edge of the lapel. There is Slim (2.25″ – 2.75″), Regular (3.00″ – 3.50″) and Wide (3.75″ – 4.50″).
Buttons – Two or What?:
Always get/do the finer things in life; it makes everything much better and less stressful. When buying a jacket suit, always go for the two button-ups because it is much more reliable no matter how you shape or what your body size is. A two button for a gentleman is very reliable but one can also opt for a three button up, or what?; this is so if the three button is well cut and can do the job. Remember, your suit is as good as you want it to be as well as how good your tailor is.
When it comes to fastening up my suit jacket buttons, or any jacket buttons of that matter, I always wonder which ones to fasten and which ones I should not? I am positively sure I am not the only one with this problem, right? Always leave your bottom button undone, no matter what jacket you’re wearing. Whether it be a two button up or a three button up. As a general rule, you should always fasten your top button, except if you’re wearing a suit that has soft features, rollover lapels.
If you haven’t noticed or did not know, the smaller third pocket cropping up on jackets and blazers over the last few years, is known as a Ticket Pocket. This is traditionally a British detail, but in this day and age you can find it on American or Italian pieces.
Let’s go back in Time: Pocket Tickets can trace their lineage back to the early days of train travel in the UK. Old workers and other commuters always find it a hassle to always dig deep into their pockets to get their rail tickets out, and so they needed something that was accessible and efficient to keep their train tickets. Train Tickets + a pocket for them equates Ticket Pocket; and so the name rose into fashion. Even though, with the historical background of the ticket pocket, it has its purpose in modern life. It adds a little extra kick to your sport jacket suit or coat. A great place to store business cards, networking made easy.
“A white shirt shows you have character, a black suit shows you have swagger, but a good tailor shows you mean money.” – Frank Sinatra